Words: Oscar Foulkes Photographs: Denver Hendricks

Readers of The Tipping Point, Malcolm Gladwell’s book on change, are generally fascinated by his explanation of how little things – often in almost invisible steps – suddenly become very big. How Hush Puppies suddenly became cool, even though the manufacturers played no part in the process. How Paul Revere roused a revolution.

One could mention the emergence of Robertson in the same breath. Other than the ‘invisible hand’ of individual businesses’ striving for success, there has been no grand plan.

Robertson’s first golden age was in the early 20th century, during the ostrich feather boom. The advent of the automobile, which allowed less room for extravagantly proportioned head dress, put paid to fashion – and to the ostrich feather market. Those who bred hackneys – the proud beasts that pulled the carriages – suddenly found their services unwanted too.

So the farmers needed to redirect their economic activity and the next big thing for Robertson farmers came with the construction of a system of canals leading from weirs on the Breede River to irrigation dams on farms. This made it possible to turn over larger areas to the planting of vines, peaches and apricots. The latter were mostly delivered to the two canning factories in Ashton, reputed to be two of the largest in the southern hemisphere. Eventually these too went the way of the ostrich feather industry: improved supply chains and changing consumer preferences (not to mention a strengthening rand) have seen a reduced demand for canned fruit.

Wine sold in bulk to producing wholesalers and KWV was used either in blends for large brands or distilled into brandy. Not only was the wine generally sold at the KWV-stipulated minimum price, but the wineries were dissuaded from marketing bottled wine under their own labels to avoid competition with the brands. However, post-1989 international interest in trade with South Africa opened up a different – and vastly more profitable – sales channel.

Thoroughbred breeders were the first to collectively market their products, under the BAR Valley (Bonnievale, Robertson and Ashton) banner, claiming an acronym the wineries may have loved to use for their group marketing effort. Flippancy aside, one cannot overestimate the role the marketing of Robertson as a wine region had on the growth of the town as a whole.

There are over 40 wineries in the greater Robertson/Bonnievale are of the Breede River Valley. Unlike ostrich farmers, horse breeders or bulk wine producers, they have a vested interest in establishing direct relationships with consumers. The most visible of their projects are the Wacky Wine Weekend attended by around 15 000 people every year and Wine on the River, which attracts about 5 500.

However, all this would have been impossible without the Huguenot Tunnel, which shortens Du Toitskloof Pass, and the upgrading of the road between Robertson and Worcester. Where the trip from Cape Town used to take two hours, it can now be done in 90 minutes, equating favourably with destinations along the increasingly congested N2. But if the wineries have made Robertson more visible, and improved roads brought the town closer to Cape Town, what makes Robertson a desirable destination? Once again, it seems to be the confluence of several factors.

Weather is always a good place to start. Winter, while cold at night, is generally temperate during the day, and very much less rainy than ‘over the mountain’ (that is, the Cape Town side of Du Toitskloof). While the southeaster does blow in summer, it is more gentle than the rest of the Western Cape and its appearance around lunchtime has a welcome cooling effect.
Retirees to Robertson – especially from Gauteng – cite a greater feeling of security as part of their motivation. Despite all the development there is still an old-fashioned country feeling about the town, highlighted by the leiwater furrows that provide water for gardens. The slower country pace engenders a relaxed feeling among those who’ve moved from the city. For those in frail health, there is, in addition to the local state hospital, a Medi-Clinic in nearby Worcester.

Of course, not everyone wants to retire to the country, only to live in a town. Pam Golding agent Eddie Deyzel reports an interest in farm cottages and smaller farms in the R2- to R3-million price range. (One hopes the prospective purchasers know that the initial cost of the farm will pale in comparison to the ongoing running costs and inevitable investment in upgrading the farming operations.)

The most significant residential property development to date has been Silwerstrand, which encompasses the old golf course and land with river frontage. The scale of the project is substantial. The course was upgraded to 18 holes and the 1401 homes will comprise a gated community with a variety of water and land-based leisure activities. Not only does the project offer a much-needed investment option in Robertson, but in selling the plots (around R345 000 for a spot in Silwerstrand’s ‘village’ and up to R1.2-million for something on the river), the developers have done a valuable marketing job for the region.

Re/Max’s Shelley Attenborough says developers are using security estates as a model for future projects. She says, ‘A ring has been drawn around the town containing the urban edge. All development is to grow in towards the town in an attempt to retain the farming element and prevent agricultural land from being subdivided into smaller units.’ (A 843m² plot in the secured village on the Hoopsrivier is going for R395 000.)

Golf and watersports are just two of the many possible local activities. Mountain-biking, hiking and horse-riding also are within easy reach. Montagu, McGregor and Barrydale are nearby, and the coastal towns of Agulhas,Arniston and Hermanus are all about an hour away.

Heavier traffic along the N2 from Cape Town has led to the Worcester-Robertson-Ashton-Swellendam route becoming an alternative for motorists heading for the Garden Route. This in turn led to the conversion of residential properties in the vicinity of Robertson station for commercial use, turning the main section of the R62 running through Robertson into a shop window for the entire region.

And it is in the shops that Robertson’s changing profile is most evident. Residents no longer feel the need to do as much of their specialist shopping in Cape Town, and some are quite emotional in their praise of the local Pick ’n Pay Family Store. Robertson foodies, it seems, want for nothing. While the local restaurants don’t yet threaten to topple Franschhoek as the culinary capital of the Western Cape, they are fast growing in number and stature.

Historically, farmers’ children were sent to boarding school in Paarl, Cape Town or Stellenbosch at the end of grade seven. However, the local government school has changed to such an extent that many locals now doubt the need for this. (At the time of going to press, Aïda had a restored, three-bedroom Victorian in a peaceful area ‘close to schools’ and ‘ready to move in’ on their books for R1.275-million.)

Technology too is playing a part in the development of Robertson. ‘Only’ 100 years after the collapse of the ostrich industry, the internet has enabled the settlement of cyber-commuters: people who are based in Robertson and service clients around the world. After all, one does want to be able to smell the roses. And of those there are plenty in Robertson.