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Suburb Information The Parks: Lunches, Leaves and Laid-back Living
Parktown North, Parkwood, Parkview and Parkhurst not only make a hefty contribution to Johannesburg’s status as the world’s largest urban forest, but these suburbs also share an atmosphere that is distinctly un-Jo’burg. This isn’t a very 21st-century set of suburbs either; the old houses, dog walkers and friendly neighbours have more in common with times gone by than today’s cut ’n thrust pace. Perhaps that’s because they are very much part of ‘Old Johannesburg’. Christelle Weale of Rawson Properties explains: ‘Most of them got their start in the late 1800s, after gold was discovered in Johannesburg. In fact, it’s the mines we have to thank for the large number of trees planted in these areas, and the modern-day residents’ associations for looking after them. The Parks can be considered Johannesburg’s lung, thanks to their arboreal abundance. From the Parks, you are just seven minutes from anywhere in Johannesburg – so it’s also the city’s heart. And, apart from the great sense of community that is notably lacking in the city’s newer suburbs, it has an old-world charm that comes from the great care poured into old homes by families who have, in many cases, been living there for generations. The homes reflect the characters of their owners, with a pot here, a bit of ironwork there, a weather vane over there…’ And, there are fewer cluster developments there than in the rest of Jo’burg, where they are ‘taking over’. Parkwood, located between the major Rosebank arteries of Jan Smuts Avenue and Oxford Road, is a case in point. Louis van Rensburg and Glenda Sheridan of Seeff Properties say the suburb is ‘reminiscent of Houghton’. According to Shirley Mitchell of Lew Geffen Sotheby’s International Realty, Parkwood dates back to the early 1920s and many of the houses were either built then or in the ’40s. Many of the original homes still stand on grounds ranging in size from 1 000m² to 2 500m², with prices ranging from the mid-millions for a home in its original state to around R5-million for a brand-new, rebuilt or refurbished property. Says Shirley, ‘Very little vacant land is available, and prices vary according to size and position. There are few apartment blocks, townhouses and clusters in the suburb, but renovated apartments in the older buildings sell for around R1-million.’ Rentals range from R15 000 to R30 000, depending on the property’s size, security and finishes. Diana Reinecke of Wendy Machanik Properties attributes the special atmosphere in Parkwood to the efforts of the residents’ association, which, she notes, continually strives to improve every aspect of the suburb. ‘One of their most important contributions is the commission of the Town Planner’s Urban Terrain, in consultation with the Johannesburg City Council, to draw up a precinct plan, which has ensured that the suburb retains its peaceful nature and green environment.’ That’s not to say the suburb is staid and stagnant – far from it. Diana is excited by the implications of Rosebank’s upgrade and the development of the Gautrain, which will improve the accessibility of OR Tambo International Airport and Pretoria.
(The Parks Centre, with its patisserie, beauty and hair salons, boutique and Woolworths store, is an excellent example of a quirky neighbourhood centre). Then there are the art galleries – like the esteemed Goodman Gallery and the Kim Sacks Gallery – that add to the suburb’s singular personality, not forgetting Johannesburg Zoo and the much-loved Zoo Lake, with Art in the Park, the fabulous Moyo restaurant, food market and chic African décor store. Another landmark, notes Christelle, is the Westcliffe Hotel in nearby Westcliffe, ‘still the best place in Johannesburg for high tea, especially in October when the jacarandas in bloom make for a breathtaking view’. Drive just a little further, and you’ll find yourself in Parktown North. Louis and Glenda relate that this suburb was once home to the Randlords’ poor relatives; ironic, since today’s purchasers are prepared to pay up to R8,5-million (in a sellers’ market) for a piece of yesterday’s Johannesburg. What gives these homes their cachet, according to Vered agents Trevor Sedgwick and Mandy Bush, is their nostalgic, almost colonial, charm – not to mention their size. ‘You’re looking at stands of up to 2 000m², with up to four bedrooms en suite, beautiful housekeepers’ accommodation, and excellent security,’ Trevor says. Although some of the larger properties have been subdivided to cut down on costs, the resulting clusters still offer exciting propositions: most measure up to 700m², are priced between R3,5-million and R6-million and are favoured by professionals and executives for the lock-up-and-go lifestyle they offer. Of course, it helps that Parktown North is easily one of Johannesburg’s prettiest suburbs, with its old, established trees, privacy and hints of old money. Plus, the area has its own hideaways for those in the know: there’s the Parktown Quarter, where locals relax at Lulu with a Saturday paper and a dark coffee as smooth as James Earl Jones’s voice, or indulge in the most exquisite pastries in Johannesburg, courtesy of Moemas. On Saturdays, the Quarter turns into a giant buffet as gourmands gather to experience the delights of the Jozi Food Market. Just a little further down the road, Seventh Street beckons with its one-of-a-kind boutiques and galleries. There are more specialist stores in nearby Parkhurst, although it’s the bustling bistros lining Fourth Avenue that have entrenched the suburb as one of Johannesburg’s trendiest addresses. Landmarks like Espresso, Nice, George’s on Fourth and The Attic draw Saturday crowds that make the restaurants as much a treat for people-watchers as for serious foodies. Dog walkers, fashionistas, yummy mummies (and daddies) and the ‘cool crew’ are all as much a part of the Parkhurst landscape as its antique shops and distinguished décor stores.
Willem Prinsloo of Lew Geffen concurs, saying that the suburb has its roots in a 1903 development started by the African Realty Trust. Previously the site of smallholdings like vegetable or dairy farms, the suburb was named – surprisingly enough – after a UK prison; a nomenclature decided on in a competition. Despite coaxing buyers with the promise that Parkhurst was ‘a sunny place to raise children, close to town’, the suburb took time to gain momentum – possibly because it was beleaguered by a drainage problem and dust roads. At the time, says Willem, stands measuring one eighth of an acre (495m²) were sold for £100 each. After World War II, Parkhurst got its second wind. Plots bought by the government were allocated to returning soldiers, whose homes set the tone for modern-day Parkhurst properties. ‘All the houses have the same basic plan: parquet flooring and plain ceilings,’ says Willem. ‘Many of them were built by a company called Gough Cooper Homes, and they were solid, boring little houses. Most had two bedrooms and one bathroom and all the living rooms faced onto the street. North-facing properties weren’t in demand in those days and every home had a single driveway, with a single garage at the back of the property.’ He adds, ‘Parkhurst was not considered a smart suburb.’ So, what changed? Trevor surmises that it was the entry of restaurants into the area that started the metamorphosis, followed by the establishment of antique enterprises and, finally, the designer outlets that make Parkhurst the darling of the ‘in’ crowd. ‘I remember the days when the only eateries in Parkhurst were the Jolly Roger, Jose’s (a Portuguese diner which sold grilled chicken people were happy to queue for, but not much else), and Plums, the first proper Parkhurst eatery, which was started by my cousin, Denise Ground.’ How times have changed. Today, Parkhurst sets the benchmark for cool and is home to many members of Johannesburg’s ‘arty’ set, including writers, musicians and ad execs. ‘I recently sold my Parkhurst home to a very stiff, staid Brit. The other day I caught a glimpse of him traipsing to the restaurants, wearing three-quarter pants and a goatee!’ Christelle laughs. So, what are buyers prepared to pay for their share of fashionable properties? ‘Anything from R1,2-million for an entry-level home to R3,5-million, in a good market,’ Trevor says, pointing out that they’re mostly paying for the village atmosphere, excellent amenities (there are a number of well-maintained sports and recreation facilities in the area, including parks) and low-maintenance homes. There are some excellent deals in Parkhurst at the moment, according to Kathy Cohen, who has been selling Parkhurst properties for over 20 years and has sold a record number of houses in the area. ‘Parkhurst is now accessible to many who wished to live here but couldn’t afford to invest in property here,’ she says. ‘Right now, buyers can pick up very good houses from R1,5-million, whereas previously they started at upwards of R2-million.’ Also contributing to the suburb’s attractiveness are its low rates and high resale values. Plus, it has a thriving rental market, with tenants paying between R8 000 and R20 000.
Some, boasting magnificent views from the Parkview Ridge, sell for R8-million. Most homes are set on 1 000m², with a few boasting 4 000m² of ground. Rentals, meanwhile, range from R12 000 to R45 000. Mike says there are only two apartment blocks in Parkview, the most popular being the ‘Kirstenbosch’ flats, once owned by the Post Office, which now sell for between R1,6- and 2,6-million. Townhouses are generally priced between R3,5-million and R4-million for three- to four-bedroom homes. The exceptions are the clusters overlooking Parkview Golf Course, where prices start at R5-million and may reach R7-million. ‘What makes Parkview special are the homes, many built in 1907, which brim with old-world charm and boast finishes like Oregon strip floors, pressed steel ceilings and glorious iron and tile fireplaces,’ Mike says. There are also a number of unique landmarks, such as Tyrone Avenue’s character shopping strip, Major O’Hara’s original castle on Kilkenny Road and the quaint St Columba’s Presbyterian Church in Lurgan Road. Excellent amenities are also draw cards. Michelle Hanson of Lew Geffen points out that there are no fewer than six churches, a synagogue nearby and a host of respected schools, including Parkview Pre-primary, The Ridge, Jan Cilliers, St Katherine’s, the German School, Parkview Junior, Parkview Senior, Parktown Girls’ High, Japari School and several kindergartens. A number of hospitals, including Milpark, are also in close proximity. ‘Because of its location, Parkview remains popular with academics from Wits and UJ, as well as the mining fraternity and banking world still based in the Johannesburg CBD,’ Mike says. ‘Many residents are also in the legal and medical fields, due to the proximity of courts and hospitals.’
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So, what types of purchasers have their eye on Parkwood? ‘Professionals, families, renovators, upgraders from Parkhurst and Melville and downscalers from Houghton and Westcliffe,’ Shirley replies. All are attracted to the suburb by its central position and proximity to business nodes, highways, restaurants, excellent private and public schools, places of worship and shopping centres. 
Ironically, the suburb has not always enjoyed the top spot on everyone’s ‘where to be seen’ list. On the contrary, notes Frances Sevel of Wendy Machanik Properties, ‘the suburb today is completely different to what it was at inception’. 
We’re not yet done with the Parks. There’s still Parkview, which shares many of the attributes of its leafy neighbours, including a strong sense of community and village feel, and a past that stretches back to the early 1900s, when Major John O’Hara (an Anglo-Boer War veteran) established the suburb. According to Vered Estates’ Mike Flinn, prices of stands that sold for £140 in 1907 now range from R1,8-million for ‘golden oldies’ in need of an upgrade to R3,5-million for family homes in good condition. 
