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Adding Value: This Season's Fabrics

The 2009 forecast for fabric trends does not have a one-word answer – certainly there’s not a single, easily defined trend as we’ve seen in past years, confirms June da Silva of Hertex Fabrics. Quizzing those at the fabric forefront, brands appear to have adopted a multifocused approach and split their ranges for 2009 into distinctly different categories. In addition to that, a handful of young, local designers are creating fabrics with innovative takes on ancient and modern South African icons, for South Africans, wherever they may be.

Gary Searle of St Leger & Viney believes the first decade of the 21st century has seen the interior design industry go through a period of innovation and renewal, not unlike that experienced at the close of the 19th century, when the Arts and Crafts movement radically changed Victorian decorating concepts. He says: ‘There are leaders now who precipitate change, and their influence – combined with the unprecedented boom in tourism and the rise of a population of global citizens as trade and financial services expanded – has meant new challenges for interior decoration.’

So, what are those challenges and changes, who and what are at the cutting edge of global design, and how are we responding to them?

Gary identifies three main trends for the year ahead. ‘Modern Contemporary’ is an international style rooted in texture and construction of finely woven fabrics, with a colour palette of greys, whites and beiges, and metallics for interest. The ‘Silk Route’, a direction within the global ethnic trend, puts the emphasis on craft and a handmade quality with a sense of the exotic – the colour palette is wool bright (the intensity of colour obtained when dyeing woollen fabric), and block-printed designs are good coordinates in this style. ‘Traditional Comfort’ announces a return to classic interiors, the hallmarks being document prints on linen, the lustre of silk, and a calm, elegant, timeless room.

Hertex’s June da Silva distilled the trends she witnessed at the 2008 fabric and furniture fairs, and has identified what she terms four ‘couture’ themes. ‘Eco Couture’, where nature is the source of inspiration for both materials and designs, ‘does not go hand in hand with brown bread and sandals,’ she says, ‘but proves beyond doubt that nature knows best. Nothing looks more gorgeous than silk or linen drapes that, even when a little shabby, will still be very chic.’ For the expressive and optimistic there’s ‘Crazy Couture’. June notes, ‘It’s also for those who relate to the early ’50s designs, when moms stayed home, wore aprons, baked cookies and had home perms.’ She describes the influence here as multicultural, with crazy patterns, tweeds in playful colours, ruffles, pleats, plastics and vinyls all mixed together in naive kitsch.

‘Classic Couture’ is just that: a classic, subtle mix of past and present. June likens it to ‘memories of Grandma’s elegant sitting room with glorious damasks and velvets, now reworked in hot and heavy colours fit for your townhouse.’ The ‘Haute Couture’ scheme includes timeless florals, period designs and classic motifs reworked with a fresh approach, but acceptable in most classic surrounds.

Tim Williams-Wynn of Chelsea Harbour Fabrics (and more recently, the Durban-based Lou Mac Designs) describes the different elements to this season’s fabrics reflected in his core brand. Fabrics with ‘highly lustrous’ elements or ‘bling’, with reflective embellishments, such as foil prints, rhinestones, glitter prints, metallic yarns, sequins, Lurex and bright, shiny beads. At the other extreme: naturals and neutrals reflect the brand’s determination to reduce its carbon footprint and support organic production. These fabrics are generally manufactured from organically produced yarn, like Chelsea Harbour’s Not Too Shabby range.

Talking colour, Tim says: ‘Small amounts of strong colour are highlighted in tomorrow’s fabrics, and although there are smatterings of cerise, azure and now cranberry, chartreuse is very popular. Green is an offshoot of the organic trend and is used in varying quantities and intensities. Non-colour – as in black and white – is always a hot favourite. The designs are either interpretations of classical ornaments or stylised florals (the toile de Jouy) or simple geometrics.’

Marguerite Macdonald of Mavromac promises us the world in this season’s fabric offerings. ‘Expect the most fabulous-quality fabrics in 2009; mostly thick, luxurious linens in ever more fascinating textures, extravagant but understated luxury. The jewel in the “linen” crown is indisputably the small, but highly exclusive, fabric house De le Cuona, which specialises in textured, handcrafted linens, paisleys and velvets. Thankfully, 2009 will also have hordes of accents in exotic colours and unusual weaves – ikats, suzanis and the like. The more unique-looking, the better – nothing can beat Caravane from Manuel Canovas, which combines exceptional colours, embroidery and hand painting on a rugged base-cloth of linen.’ For Marguerite, these unique, handcrafted looks and beautiful linens are ideal for South African interiors. ‘They fit seamlessly into our natural, unpretentious way of life – more “roots” than “ethnic”, more worldly than African.’ And, finally, she sees a plethora of amazingly attractive fabrics for full outdoor use, all in the most gorgeous weaves and colours.

Young and restless, Design Team is committed to its local manufacturing and fabric collections. Lise Butler stresses, though, that ‘local quality and design innovation should be of an international standard’. Local must never be lower. She’s convinced the appeal of their range lies in the unpretentious mix of global trends and local inspiration. ‘South Africans are embracing local fabric designs, and this will increase as we head for the 2010 World Soccer Cup.

If patriotism is an overly formal description of buying trends, I’d say then that decorators and the public are increasingly more comfortable celebrating and enjoying South African beauty in its numerous forms.’ Of their ranges, she believes the classic, nature-inspired designs will always withstand the test of time. Their Protea design, launched in 2006, is still their top seller. She also feels that ‘adding value to a design through nostalgia or humour, such as their Towns design, increases the design’s appeal and life span’. She adds: ‘Many designers are counteracting the negativity of the current economic downturn with the use of cheerful, bright colour palettes. Neutrals and earth tones will always be relevant, while unexpected elements of colour paired with trusted, neutral grounds will remain popular.’

Fabric trends for 2009 can be almost anything you want them to be. You can have your dream velvet lined bordello, your crafty hand-embroidered upholstery, or your 100 per cent natural patterns and plains, fabrics designed and made both here and there. It’s your call.